Calves’ feet jelly, also known as “Cow Heel Jelly” or in Scots as “Hough Jelly,” is a very traditional dish, once common in Scotland as a way to use all parts of the animal and create a nourishing food that would set into a jelly due to the high collagen content. It’s not widely made today but holds a place in culinary history.
Traditional Scottish Calves’ Feet Jelly (Hough Jelly)
Ingredients:
- 2 calves’ feet, well-cleaned and preferably chopped into sections by your butcher
- Approximately 2-3 liters of cold water (enough to cover the feet generously)
- 1 large onion, peeled and quartered
- 2-3 carrots, roughly chopped
- 2-3 celery stalks, roughly chopped
- 1 bay leaf
- 5-6 peppercorns
- Salt to taste
- Optional flavorings (depending on preference and historical variations):
- A sprig of thyme or parsley
- A splash of white wine or cider vinegar
- Lemon peel (a few strips)
- Mace or cloves (a few)
Instructions for cooking Calves’ Feet Jelly:
- Prepare the Feet: Ensure the calves’ feet are thoroughly cleaned. Your butcher may have already done this, but it’s worth checking. Some older recipes suggest soaking them in cold water overnight, changing the water a few times.
- First Boil: Place the calves’ feet in a large, heavy-bottomed pot. Cover them generously with cold water. Bring to a boil over high heat. As it boils, skim off any scum or froth that rises to the surface. This is important for a clear jelly.
- Add Flavorings: Once the skimming is done, add the onion, carrots, celery, bay leaf, and peppercorns to the pot. Add any other optional flavorings you wish to use.
- Simmer Slowly: Reduce the heat to very low, so the liquid is just gently simmering. Cover the pot and let it cook for a very long time – typically 4 to 6 hours, or even longer. The goal is to extract all the collagen from the bones and connective tissues. The meat should be falling off the bones.
- Check for Setting: To check if enough collagen has been extracted, take a small amount of the liquid and let it cool. It should start to feel slightly sticky or gelatinous as it cools.
- Remove the Feet and Strain: Once the feet are very tender and the liquid seems sufficiently gelatinous, carefully remove the calves’ feet from the pot using a slotted spoon. Place them on a plate to cool slightly.
- Strain the Broth: Pour the broth through a fine-mesh sieve or a muslin-lined colander into a clean bowl. This will remove all the solids (vegetables, peppercorns, etc.) and ensure a smooth jelly.
- Separate the Meat (Optional): Once the calves’ feet are cool enough to handle, you can pick off any meat and set it aside. Traditionally, this meat might be added back to the jelly for texture, or it could be used in other dishes. If you prefer a clear jelly, you can discard the meat.
- Season and Adjust: Taste the strained broth and season with salt to your liking. You can also add a little more vinegar or lemon juice at this stage if you prefer a slightly sharper flavor.
- Set the Jelly: Pour the seasoned broth into molds or bowls. Let it cool to room temperature, then transfer it to the refrigerator to chill and set completely. This will take several hours, ideally overnight.
- Serve: To serve, you can unmold the jelly (if using molds) or simply serve it from the bowls. Traditionally, it might have been served on its own, or perhaps with some oatcakes or bread.
Notes:
- Sourcing Calves’ Feet: Calves’ feet are not commonly sold in regular supermarkets today. You will likely need to find a good butcher who can source them for you.
- Hygiene: Ensure the calves’ feet are very well-cleaned before cooking.
- Clarity: For a very clear jelly, you can clarify the broth further after straining using egg whites, although this is a more advanced technique and might not have been strictly part of the most basic traditional recipes.
- Flavor Variations: As mentioned, the flavorings can be adjusted to your preference. Some older recipes might have used different herbs or spices.
- Modern Context: This dish is quite different from modern culinary norms. It was a practical way to utilize all parts of the animal and create a nutritious, if somewhat unusual by today’s standards, food.
This recipe provides a glimpse into traditional Scottish cookery where resourcefulness and long, slow cooking were key. Enjoy exploring this historical dish!